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Monday, July 1, 2013

JUNTOS



I apologize for the gap in posts, but I write to you now from the last leg of a secondary project marathon.  June is a CRAZY month.

            Two weekends ago, Mireya and I started the marathon by hosting a workshop for JUNTOS (Jovens Unidos no Trobalho Oportunidades e Successos or Youth United in Work, Opportunities, and Suncesses).  Of course as a pre-race warm-up, we had to navigate an obstacle course of headaches common to planning any such event in Mozambique.

            The workshop was to include three groups of kids: Home team Montepuez and visitors from Mocimboa da Praia and Mariri.  The first challenge was finding a safe and affordable place to house the visiting groups.  Ideally, visiting groups stay at the host groups’ school dormatories because we can usually negotiate for them to stay for free.  Unfortunately, there was no space at ours so we began to look elsewhere.  Thanks to the ruby mining just outside of town, Inns in Montepuez are a tricky business for two reasons: 1) People who stay in inns in Montepuez usually have a lot of money, therefore, the inns often charge an arm and a leg 2) Where there’s money, there’s crime (Don’t worry, life in Montepuez is not a scene out of Blood Diamond), and so inns that don’t charge an arm and a leg are often sketchy at best… no place to put our underage charges.  Luckily Mireya found the perfect place:  A bright pink inn with reasonably priced rooms, a restaurant area that they were willing to rent out to us a conference room, and PUPPIES!!!

            Second obstacle:  food.  Due to budget cutbacks, we couldn’t hire just anyone to “cater” our workshop and pay for each meal by the plate.  Our budget demanded that we buy all of the food in bulk ahead of time and negotiate for someone to prepare it.  The obvious person to prepare it would have been the cook for the inn’s restaurant.  But being Mozambique, just because an inn has a “restaurant” it doesn’t mean it’s functional.  There was no cook.  Someone staying at the inn just happened to know of a woman who used to hire herself out to cook for large groups and was currently looking for work.  The owner of the inn gave her a call and just like that, the inn had a functional restaurant and we had a cook.

            Then we actually had to get the food.  Have you ever tried to extrapolate recipes for more than 20 people?  I don’t know about you but I generally don’t think in quantities of kilos and litres when I’m cooking (I don’t just mean the thinking in metric part).  More importantly, have you ever tried to buy food for that many people without a grocery store or a car to transport it?  After 16 chickens and a 50lb bag of rice we had over 200lbs of stuff to get across town.  As we were debating how to get our rice home (I can carry feed bags, sure, but the last time I checked it wasn’t a mile between the barn and the car), we ran into Alan, one of Montepuez’s lovely missionaries, running errands in his truck and he graciously agreed to give us and our stuff a lift.

            The first group to arrive Saturday morning was Mariri.  About this time, I had learned that the inn had completely sold out of sodas so we would have to bring them in from elsewhere.  This is not a simple task because sodas here are sold in glass bottles that have to be returned to the vendor so unless you have empty bottles to trade, they are hardpressed to let their bottles go.  This meant I would have to go to the wholesaler (of course on the other side of town) to try to negotiate a deposit on some crates of bottles.  Since Alan wasn’t around to save the day, I put the Mariri group to work.  I took them into town, bought them breakfast, then we carried the two cases of soda from the wholesaler back across town to the inn.  Being typical respectful Mozambican students, at first they refused to help carry one of the cases for a stretch.  Finally they tired and I took my turn and we spent the rest of the walk talking about Arnold Schwartzenager (as Mozambicans are always surprised when we Americans show ANY willingness to do physical labor).

            Mocimboa da Praia arrived a few hours later (9 hours of travel that started at 3am!!!) and the workshop was finally underway.  JUNTOS is funded by PEPFAR so all of our sessions are about leadership, sexual health, and HIV/AIDS.  These kids have this information beat into their heads time and time again so finding new and fun ways to present these topics takes some creativity.  One of the topics Mireya and I were responsible for presenting was puberty.  All of our kids have already hit puberty so we decided that we could probably get away with a game to review what happens.  Thanks to a donation of extra hair weave from my neighbors among other local materials, we were able to design relay races with activities that related to feminine and masculine puberty.  Some of the activities might seem crude, but part of the purpose of these PEPFAR youth clubs is to make the kids comfortable with the changes they are going through and you can’t achieve that by beating around the bush, so, with that disclaimer:

Feminine Relay Race:
1) Body hair begins to grow – put clumps of weave in armpits
2) Breasts come in – stuff shirt with two balls made of plastic bags
3) Hips widen – run back with a ball/pot between legs
4) Menstruation begins – Open a sanitary napkin and smash a tomato on it
5) Face become oily – wash face

Masculine Relay Race
1) Facial and body hair begins to grow – put on a beard made of weave
2) Muscles grow – Stuff sleeves with plastic bag balls
3) Voice deepens – Read a sentence starting with a high pitched voice and end with low pitched
4) Wet dreams begin – “Fall asleep” in a chair covered in a capulana, wake up surprised, “wash” the capulana and replace it on the chair
5) Face becomes oily – wash face

            Those 5 minutes were easily the most entertaining I’ve had in months.

            As far as the kids knew, the workshop continued to run smoothly.  Things in the kitchen, however, were getting heated.  For the first lunch, we had planned matapa served over rice.  We had intended for the 50lb sack of rice to last for all four meals we were serving that weekend but when we went back to check on the matapa, the cook had prepared 25lbs of dry rice JUST FOR THAT LUNCH!!!!  I mean, they love their carbs here, but even our hungriest teenage boy wasn’t going to eat an entire pound of rice.  (A pound of potatoes for every person, right, Mom?) The woman was indignant when we confronted her about this and maintained this attitude for the rest of the weekend when we started keeping a closer eye on the portion control.  We told her she could use only 5 chickens that night for the curry because the rest were for serving grilled half-chickens the next night and had bought just enough.  Of course she used 6 when we weren’t looking which left us with the awkward decision of who wasn’t going to get to eat dinner the next night.

            On top of that, she had called for her kids to come armed with large tupperwares to take home food…probably the real reason for making too much food.  We quickly put a stop to this practice but compromised by letting the cook and the rest of the workers eating the extra food after all of our kids were served.  Then they tried tell us that they weren’t going to see any of the money we had agreed to pay the owner of the inn for the preparation of food so we needed to pay them extra.  We cleared up that misunderstanding with the owner right away.  Mozambicans can be the nicest people in the world but boy do they try to milk you for every last dime sometimes.

            Speaking of milk, the cook made an odd request before she agreed to cook for our group.  She asked us to buy her fresh milk to drink while she cooked to protect her throat from the charcoal smoke.  We agreed that this was an easy thing to do and if it would she would cook better and faster with milk, then get the lady milk.  Then we saw her on her smoke break with a fat cigarette… I really wonder what goes through people’s heads sometimes.

            Then there was the matter of plates, cups, and utensils.  Everytime I visited the kitchen while planning the workshop I never saw enough stuff to serve 20+ people and everytime I brought it up with the owner and the cook, I was assured that there would be.  Either way, you’d assume that would have been an obvious detail when it comes to running a restaurant.  When we were getting ready to serve lunch the first day, I asked where the plates were. 

Me: Where are the plates? Cook: You didn’t bring your own plates?  Me: No, you said you had them.  Cook: Oh, I guess we can find some…

*Time elapses*

Me: We need utensils.  Cook: What?  You didn’t bring utensils?  Me: NO!  Give us some freakin spoons!

*Time elapses*

Me:  We need 20 cups.  Find them.

And we still ended up bringing utensils and cups from home.

            Despite all of the firey hoops Mireya and I had to jump through to keep these kids housed and fed, they seemed to have a great time and many went home with the names and numbers of new friends.
Julito, Belarmino, and Pedro performing a skit about violence against children.
2013 Cabo Delgado JUNTOS workshop participants

Montepuez JUNTOS 3rd year veterans Gamito and Joao


JUNTOS Montepuez (left to right) Joao, Jorge, Mireya, Fastudo, Belarmino, Julito, our counterpart Brito, me, and Gamito

Tuesday, June 4, 2013

Teen Angst



          Last week, Mireya taught her 11th graders about giving advice in English (using should, must, etc.).  To practice, she had her students write down a problem they have and give it to a friend for their advice.  Some of the problems are exactly what you’d expect from a high schooler.  Others just have some very interesting English.  Some, however, are probably unique to high schoolers in Mozambique or countries like it.

“I have four grilfriend but I want one.  What do you think I should do?”  - Boy

“I am very constipated.  What do I do?” (sidenote: the Portuguese word for congestion is constipação…)  - Girl

 “My husband hits me.  It hurts.  What do you think I should do?” - Girl

“I have a missing evaluation and afraid of the ticher!” - Boy

“I me not don’t speak english.  My collegue the classroom is speak englesh good.  I me want go to study in university know me don’t possibility.  What do you think should do?” - Girl

“I am the first son of my parent, I need marry a woman of my taste and my parents does not want marry with her, like a woman I do not like!  What do you think I should do?” - Boy

“I have a problem with my neighbor because they lent you 200 meticais 1 year ago.” – Girl

“I have some girlfriend dated for a while and affter a while we separated and stay two months without seeing each other and three months until she comes and says that a mite pregnant.  I get confused whether pregnant or not, and is my or not my.  What do you think I should do?” - Boy

“I have some friends who did not help for nothing.  They are naughty my famelly tells me to get away from them… but I can not they call me to come… And I guess I’m not as sympathetic to ignore them… My boyfriends walks of my boring because them… Phew… Help me out dis Hell…” - Girl

“I’ve always been a guy very womanizer, always enjoyed being with many girls.  I even already had 6 girlfriends at the same time.  More now everything has changed for me my friend.  I met a very beautiful woman and fell in love, I love very much but she know that I’m a player boy not look at me.  What do you think I should do?” - Boy

“I’m in grade 11 and I have boyfriend he not live here he lives in Maputo and my parents won’t allow me to go there.  I miss him a lot L I need him because he is the only one who can make me happy L  I really love him and can’t live without him.” - Girl

“Have a lot of friends but do have one or two enemies who do not like me at all and who I am scared of.” - Boy

“When I asked forgiveness to a person not wanted to forgive me so I fell really bad and I’m sorry for having said something that he doesn’t like.  What do you think I should do?” - Girl

“I am grade 11, have problem the AIDS my parents and hospital no have the medication.” - Boy

“I have a problem.  Whenever I like someone comes another to screw it up.  But sometimes I’m afraid to love because afraid to love someone and suffer.  And very sincere that I very worry.” - Girl

Saturday, May 25, 2013

Lights out



One of my first orders of business when I moved into the house was to fix the hall and bathroom light as well replace an old outlet and install a new outlet in our kitchen (for a fridge which we will finally get in July!!!  Prepare yourselves for another food post after we’ve broken it in).  This was my first lesson in the Mozambican handyman.  Having no idea where to find an “electrician” to do this work, I asked my neighbor to refer me to someone.  He gladly gave me the name and number of a friend who he said was “training” to be an electrician.  I give the guy a call and he shows up to my house to take a look. Between my awful Portuguese and some interpretive dancing, I finally get him to understand what I want done.  He agrees to meet me at the market the next afternoon to buy his supplies.  Only three days after our first interaction, he is hard at work wiring my house.  I didn’t appreciate until later just how fast that is in Mozambique.

            There really is no “code” in Mozambique, doesn’t matter if your changing a lightbulb, building a house, or teaching the future leaders of the country.  At least if there is, it’s in a yellowed binder gathering dust somewhere… or being used to light someone’s carvão... Anyways, “electricians” in this country don’t find it necessary to shut off the power to before stripping wires and removing old outlets.  He got a lot of amusement from my jumping everytime something popped or sparked.  I’m sorry if I don’t want to watch someone get fried in my own house.

            Planning ahead really isn’t something many Mozambicans have mastered, either.  Even though I had long since realized that about the only “training” this guy had was on how to complete a circuit (if I had known this was the only requirement for calling yourself an electrician, I would have done all this myself… after I disconnected the power), I continued to serve as his assistant and let him make all the major decisions.  Until we got to the hall light, that is.  The wire was fried towards the circuit box so it needed to be replaced before we could install the new light fixture.  We didn’t know about the faulty wire until after we had gone to the market and so we only had about 1.5 meters of wire left over from installing the kitchen outlet.  I figured this was fine because it really didn’t matter how far down the hall the light ended up being so long as it was in the hall.  But the “electrician” was determined to keep it in its orginal place.  Mind you, all the wiring for houses here is just tacked to the wall, so it’s not like we were comitted to using preexisting holes in dry wall.

            As he started tacking up the wire in the hall and working back towards the circuit box, I expressed my concern that we weren’t going to have enough wire to go all the way and we should move the light closer… or start from the circuit box and work down the hallway… I was politely ignored until we reached the circuit box.  Actually until we ran out of wire about 5” from the box.  Rather than re-lay the wire, we went out and bought more wire which he used to patch the gap between the wire and the circuit box. He was kind enough to insulate the now exposed, live wires in my hallway with plastic bag scraps…

            Story two actually begins as Mireya’s first dealings with a Mozambican “electrician” in July of last year.  We are used to losing power fairly frequently so Mireya and our neighbors thought nothing of it last year when the power went out.  It wasn’t until after a week or so that they realized that it wasn’t our entire neighborhood that had lost power, just our house and their house.  Dutifully, Mireya called EDM (Energia de Moçambique) to ask for a technician… and she called again… and she called again… and again.  After about 2 weeks without power, she finally decided to call the “electrician” a friend of the neighbor’s had recommended.  He came almost immediately, recognized the problem, opened some boxes, jiggled some wires, and Mireya had power again.

            Now fast forward to my arrival.  Electricity here is pre-paid.  You have to go to the local EDM office to purchase kW, then go home and enter a code from the receipt into the box that connects your house to the grid.   When you use up your pre-paid amount, your energy shuts off.  When I showed up, I could not figure out how to read that box for the life of me.  The only number that was in kW was negative, which made absolutely no sense, so I was left with a guessing game of when my power would run out.  When Mireya came back, we bought a couple hundred mets worth of kW but we decided to just keep the receipt handy for when the energy finally ran out.  Four months passed and we still had power.  Mireya had never calculated how much energy she used so we just chocked up our low usage to not having a fridge or a TV. 

            Then an EDM representive showed up at our house during a random inspection of all the units in our neighborhood.  I obligingly showed him all of the receipts that Mireya had kept for energy purchased within the last year and things were going great until he asked to see our box in the back of our house.  That’s when we learned the reason for our power never running out.  Apparently, the “electrician” that had fixed the box almost a year before hadn’t just fixed it, he had rigged it to bypass the whole credit system.  We had been stealing electricity.  The ironic part is, except for the last few months, Mireya had been dutifully buying and entering energy, not knowing that it wouldn’t “run out.”  It took all of our feminine, foreign power to keep the technician from cutting our energy right then and there.  Not that he didn’t have the right cut our power, but we knew that as soon as he did, it could be weeks before we won the fight to get it back.  So for now, we’re enjoying our “free” electricity until the technician comes back to reconnect our box the correct way. 

Monday, May 20, 2013

29 Years




            I was on my way home from Pemba in an open-back chapa (a fancy way to say the bed of a pick-up truck) and doing as chapas do, it stopped in every small town to drop off and pick up passengers.  Climbing in and out of a pick up truck is usually not a graceful process but it is something that any Mozambican wishing to travel more than walking distance (the Mozambican threshold is much higher, mind you) is very familiar with. 

            We pulled up alongside an elderly couple that had flagged down our truck.  It took some heaving and huffing, but the gentleman was able to lift himself over the edge and into the bed of the truck.  His wife required a little extra assistance as she had the disadvantage of having her legs basically bound together by the capulana she was wearing but with a pull and a boost, she joined her husband.  When they sat down next to each other, the woman’s face not didn’t reveal much but the man was laughing at what a ridiculous spectacle they had made of themselves and he continued to grin a big, blissful and for the most part toothless grin until the chapa pulled into their destination.

            Remembering the effort that went into getting the elderly couple into the truck, the cobrador (the person who works for the driver collecting fees) hopped out of the truck.  Cobradors in open-back chapas are used to loading and unloading cargo, so this one obligingly extended his arms out to help the woman out of the truck and then returned for her husband.  If he didn’t feel ridiculous before while climbing into the truck, he certainly felt ridiculous now.  He was almost laughing too hard to be of any help to the cobrador as he lifted him up out of the truck and set him on the ground. 

            Maybe it was only the comedic relief this couple provided that drew my attention to them, but I don’t see pairs like this one all too often in Mozambique.  Sure there are traditional husband/wife pairs everywhere, but this couple was older than most I’d seen (quite a feat for one of the poorest provinces in a country with one of the lowest life expectancies) but more impressive was that they seemed noticeably happy together.  Affection is not a very public part of relationships so the fact that I could tell how comfortable these two were with each other, I hope, indicates a long and loving relationship.   Incidently, my own parents were celebrating their 29th wedding anniversary this past week (Not that either are old and toothless...).  Congratulations, mom and dad!  I love you both!

Monday, April 29, 2013

Surprise Visitor



Technically classes were scheduled this week.  If you remember how the last trimester started, it should come as no surprise that there weren’t actually any students or teachers at school.  In fact, my student and neighbor, Marisa, stopped by the school to find just 13 students.  This is the reason why I didn’t feel guilty not going into school yesterday and why my “one week” break turned into a nearly three week break (the last week of the first trimester was, quite frankly, a joke). 

            As a result, I have been enjoying some extra, lazy days off.  Mireya and I didn’t even leave the house the other day.  Early that evening, I was sitting at the kitchen table working on my 24th consecutive page of a puzzle book and listening to my Ipod, my glasses discarded somewhere nearby.  It was dark outside but I hadn’t yet closed the door because it’s just starting to get cold in Montepuez and we have been enjoying the fresh air. 

            In middle of figuring out an anagram “virgo,” I saw some movement out of the corner of my eye.  I look up to see the shape of a man in our doorway and instantly I’m doing and thinking a million things at once.  Where are my glasses?  Take off headphones. How long has he been standing there?  Why is he standing in the doorway – why didn’t he ‘censa’ from a respectable distance from the porch?  Do I know him?  Check my capulana is secure around my waist (I’ve already been caught today in my workout spandex by the school janitor who visits a little too frequently). Nope, I don’t know him.  Smile and try to act like I didn’t just jump out of my skin. 
           
            The guy seemed to be about my age and despite standing in my house uninvited, had a friendly smile on his face that said he wasn’t there to cause trouble. I said ‘Boa noite’ but he didn’t reply.  He excitedly shook my hand with the ultimate secret Mozambican handshake that I still haven’t quite mastered (normal handshake, switch to arm wrestle hand hold, swtich back to normal, then snap with the thumbs and dramatically pull away). He looks around the room before making an hourglass shape around his body and then a questioning gesture with his hands, still smiling ear to ear.  Deaf.  This should be fun.  I took the hourglass shape to mean that he was looking for Mireya, not me.  I go to grab Mireya and a little notebook.

            Mireya remembered him from a similar visit last year and so we began a half-signed, half-written exchange.  Brighton Mirige was born in Zimbabwe.  He came to live with his brother who works in the ruby mines just outside of Montepuez.  Anyways, just about as fast as he appeared in our doorway, he disappeared.  Huh.  This place is weird.